Day 3: Arena Blanca Reserve and Oilbirds at Moyobamba

We left early for Arena Blanca Reserve, a haven for ground-dwelling species. Hides and feeders here offered us views of Cinereous Tinamou, Little Tinamou, and, to our delight, Rufous-breasted Wood Quail. Hummingbirds were active too, including a resplendent Wire-crested Thorntail and another brilliant Rufous-crested Coquette. At the tanager station, a striking Magpie Tanager made an appearance. Unfortunately, intermittent rain challenged our photography throughout the day.

Our next destination was Moyobamba, home to one of the finest oilbird viewing sites in South America. These nocturnal, fruit-eating birds roost in a gorge just off the roadside.

As we passed by in the morning, their eerie echolocation calls echoed through the misty ravine. We returned late morning when sunlight reached the gorge. Dozens of Oilbirds were now visible—up to 50 or 60 pairs roosting in the rocky crevices. The atmosphere was surreal, with the haunting calls of oilbirds mixing with the squawks of White-eyed Parakeets. Despite the low light, I managed a few respectful, flash-free shots.

After this memorable experience, we made a brief stop at a nearby feeder station before continuing our journey.

Day 4: Owlet Lodge Detour and the Marvellous Spatuletail at Huembo

Our itinerary originally included Owlet Lodge, but due to pandemic-related maintenance closures, we were unable to access the site. However, a nearby hummingbird spot offered a fine consolation. There, we saw Royal Sunangel, Peruvian Racket-tail, Silver Tanager, and Flowerpiercers—small nectar thieves with needle-like bills.

That evening, we reached Huembo Lodge, famed for sightings of the Marvelous Spatuletail. This incredible hummingbird was high on our list.

We climbed for about 45 minutes to reach a remote feeder site. Though several feeders were active, the Spatuletail avoided them, preferring to feed on wildflowers. We had fleeting glimpses of one adult male and one sub-adult in dense foliage. Photography was tough—poor light, cluttered backgrounds, and hyperactive movement challenged our efforts. I managed a few usable shots but remained unsatisfied.

Later that day, our guide took us to another hidden viewpoint where, after crawling through dense vegetation, we witnessed an adult male performing an elaborate courtship display—fanning its distinctive spatule-shaped tail feathers. Though the site was too enclosed for photography, observing this behaviour was deeply rewarding.

Day 5: Attempt for the Long-whiskered Owlet and Setbacks

Another target species was the Long-whiskered Owlet, among the rarest owls in the world. In the afternoon, we travelled 1.5 hours to a known site. The journey passed through lively villages where the World Cup spirit was alive—football matches played on roadside screens as locals gathered in celebration.

On arrival, our guide met with local community leaders. A tense discussion followed. Unfortunately, due to unresolved land disputes and COVID-related restrictions, access was denied. Despite our respectful requests, the decision stood.

Disappointed but understanding of the situation, we made our way back and prepared for the next leg of our journey.

Days 6–7: Cusco, High-Altitude Birding, and Machu Picchu

After flying from Lima to Cusco, we settled into a charming heritage hotel. Early the next morning, we headed to a high-altitude lake near the Urubamba River, set at 4,000 metres. The landscape, reminiscent of the Himalayas, was stark and beautiful.

Highlights included:

• Andean Lapwing – Cooperative and elegant, seen in good numbers.

• Andean Flicker – Common but tricky to photograph in harsh light.

• Andean Goose – A distant pair prompted a careful 1.5-hour stalk across boggy ground. Despite thin air and challenging terrain, I secured full-frame images.

Other sightings included Puna Ibis and Yellow-billed Teal. After birding, we rushed to the train station for Machu Picchu.

On the way, we stopped to search for the Bearded Mountaineer, a dazzling endemic. After several attempts, including a feeder visit, we found one just before our train departure—completing our hummingbird wishlist.

The Machu Picchu visit itself was spellbinding. Two days immersed in Incan engineering, ancient stonework, and vibrant markets were a fitting cultural complement to our naturalist pursuits. During lunch by the river, we spotted a Torrent Duck, an agile swimmer in turbulent waters—an exhilarating surprise.